how to build an insanely bright led flashlight!
I\'m going to show you how I made this bright and ridiculous handheld LED flashlight so you can turn the night into the day as well. . .
To you of friend left deep impression
Most of us often use flashlights in activities such as camping, walking at night or just going out in the dark.
However, most of us bought these cheap premium bags at the local hardware store checkout.
These cheap flashlights, if any, produce useless light.
To fix this, I designed and built this crazy bright, surprisingly useful and very impressive flashlight that is perfect for lighting your path in the dark and creating like sci
A sphere of Fi glow, used as a work light and many other things, all for a reasonable cost.
This is the list of parts I use, however, something similar should work as well.
Including the Amazon link (
I live in Canada so the prices and links are mostly Canadian and it should also benefit people who live in the USS.
Because of the dollar).
Boost converter-CDN$ 18. 01 -Amazon.
Connector-caXT60CDN$ 2. 99 -Amazon.
CaLiPo battery alarm-CDN$ 3. 99 -Amazon. caSwitches -CDN$ 6. 17 -Amazon. CaVolt/ammeter-CDN$ 13. 57 -Amazon. caHeatsink -CDN$ 20. 04 -Amazon. ca100w LED -USD$ 10. 49 -Amazon.
ComLens and reflectorUSD$ 4. 99 -Amazon. com11.
1 v LiPo battery (
Choose the one that best suits youCDN$ 24. 88 -Amazon. caCDN$ 49. 00 -Amazon. ca (
This is 2 packs of battery update version above)CDN$ 85. 14 -Amazon. ca (
Higher budget capacity)CDN$ 53. 00 -Amazon. ca (
Capacity is also relatively large)
Battery Charger-CDN$ 27. 59 -Amazon. ca (
Power is not included)
Balance charger cable extension-CDN$ 2. 04 -Amazon.
Various materials such as wires, terminal blocks, fuse/fuse holders, welding, heat shrinkage, etc are also required for CaYou.
The total cost should be under $200, however, keep in mind that the battery and charger can also be used for other things, which will be comparable to the product that costs $600 and they are not working on the project.
In addition, this price includes the learning experience and knowledge you will gain when doing such a project.
This is priceless.
Therefore, because the LED in this \"large-scale lighting weapon\" consumes a lot of power, up to 100 watts (
33 volts 3 amps)
, It generates a lot of heat, so we need a radiator to keep it cool, the radiator I listed in the parts list may look a bit overdone and a bit overdone (only a little)
But so is the whole building.
In order to provide enough power to this hungry beast, we need a powerful battery designed for high discharge applications, small and lightweight, after all it\'s a portable flashlight (
Excluding lead acid).
The obvious solution to these two requirements is the lithium polymer battery (Li-Po). Li-
Po batteries are commonly used for high power-
Performance drones, RC cars and electric vehicles.
They are small in size, light in weight and very fast in discharge speed, perfect for our flashlight.
I went on the 11 th. 1v Li-Po battery (
Link in material section). But wait. . .
The LED needs 33 volts and the battery is only 11 volts. 1 volts? !
The Boost converter came in from here.
Converter \"lift\" 11.
1 v 33 v required from battery to LED, or whatever you use on-
Board potentiometer for adjusting output voltage.
Still, we have to be careful because the voltage of the LED will never exceed 34 v, and it will only light up around at least 26 v, so, we need some way to monitor the output voltage of the boost converter, which leads us to the next component. . .
The digital meter allows us to do this and with it we can see the voltage and current of the LED.
This makes it very easy to adjust the brightness of the light, and also prevents excessive power supply of the LED.
For extra protection we have a 4 amp fuse on the output of the boost converter because no matter how interesting it is to try to blow up a 100 watt LED, I don\'t want to wait any longer to ship it.
Next is the battery alarm.
The purpose of the alarm is to protect the battery from excessive discharge, which is due to the Li-Po batteries.
Each battery will be filled up to 4.
2 volts per battery and cannot be less than 3 volts per battery at an absolute minimum.
If the voltage is below 3 volts, then it will quickly drop to 1 or 2 volts and damage the battery.
However, we avoid this by setting the battery alarm beep to 3. 2 volts (
Use the button at the top)
But if the voltage drops too low for some mysterious unknown reason, don\'t panic, just put the battery on the balance charger and charge at a low charging rate, you can restore the battery with minimal damage.
In this design, I decided to use only two switches, one main power switch and one switch for the LED.
I did this to turn on the fan, battery alert and digital meter without the LED on.
With this design, I can see the battery voltage with or without load, also, when I turn on the main power, it sounds cool and when everything is OK, it will
To install the LED onto the radiator, apply hot paste first, as described above (
Or the way you prefer, I know the hot paste application can be a very. . .
Controversial topics? ).
I then had to use a small piece of the aluminum radiator and then I bolted it on the LED and clamped it on the radiator as shown in the picture above.
Be careful not to tighten the bolts too much, otherwise the LED will be bent.
You can also connect the lens and reflector to the LED using epoxy.
For this case, I
Riding an old flashlight, it broke down and was thrown away.
I first cut off the interior components of the car headlights and 2 small lead-acid batteries.
I recycled the battery and started to modify the housing to fit my components.
All you need for this step is hot glue, epoxy, sandpaper and Dremel.
I started by removing some support with my trusted Dremel (
Dremels is a great tool).
Next, I assembled most of the parts and left the wires for a long time so that they could be cut into length later and attached to the reflector.
Epoxy is your best friend when doing this kind of thing.
I tested to install the component into the shell and it fits perfectly.
I then cut the vent for the fan and finish it with the speaker grill I recycled from the broken Ipod base.
At this point, I cut and polished digital meters, battery alarms, master switches and fine-tuned potentiometer for installing them, and slots for the boost converter with a lot of hot glue, because no one will see it inside, right?
I added some finishing touches to the top of the battery and shell like Velcro for easy installation and some decals that came with my battery.
It\'s time to connect.
I know many of you will not use the existing cases in luxury, so I am happy to see what you have all put forward for your case.
Be creative and let yourself have it.
I included a simple schematic diagram showing how to connect all components.
When wiring, be sure to make the wires long enough to fit your situation.
I did most of the wiring before putting everything into my case, however, depending on your case, you can choose to route it after.
For this step, you need the terminal blocks for grounding and power connection (
12 or 14 ad hoc working groups for high-power connections)
4 amp fuse and fuse holder as well as various other small materials.
* Don\'t forget to use a heat shrink tube for all possible connections * First weld some wires to the female XT60 connector and connect the switch in series with the ground wire, which will act as the main power switch.
Next, fix the end in the terminal block to create the track and ground rail (
Depending on the type of terminal blocks you use, you may have to bridge the wires to other terminals for each connection).
The boost converter welds the input to power and ground. Add the switch and fuse holder at the negative output.
We use a 4 amp fuse here.
In addition, you would like to have an accessible potentiometer to adjust the voltage to the LED.
I have just expanded the trimmer pot that is already on the converter.
The digital meter and led connect 2 thin wires to the power supply in the terminal block, red to the front, black to the ground.
The thicker black line enters the negative output of the boost converter after the fuse holder.
Yellow wire to negative terminal of led. The thicker red line goes to the positive output of the boost converter.
The battery alarmTo connects the alarm to connect the balance Connector extension to the pin ground to 3, however, cut off the ground wire and connect it to the main ground on the terminal of the wiring.
Here\'s a list of things that shouldn\'t be done: My mistake is mostly about boost converters, and during the prototyping of this build I actually blew up 4 boards.
But it doesn\'t matter because that\'s how you learn, at least that\'s the best excuse I can come up.
Converter 1 & 2 (
Yes, I did it twice:.
Not short output-
The board will pop up and hissing.
The first time I do this is the first time I touch the wire of the LED.
The LED made me blind when I turned on the voltage and I accidentally short the wire. Converter 3.
Do not rush to try to pull off the wire before the solder is completely melted, you will pull off the solder.
Solder is lead-
Free, so it takes more heat to melt than the good old 60/40. Converter 4.
Do not accidentally reverse the input polarity, there will be fireworks with this.
Everything went well on top of that. I plan very soon :-
Upgrade with a suitable fine-tuning potentiometer with beautiful knobs and increase the voltage limit in some way. -
Make an adapter and plug in two batteries in parallel. -
Do fan controller-
Experiment to make the beam narrower
Make an adapter and plug in the power supply like a laptop power supply, I will make the second version of this lamp, in this version, I plan to make smaller, waterproof lights by making the shell itself a radiator.
I will upload another structure when it is done.
Thank you for reading my first note.
If you have any questions, concerns or suggestions, please post them in the comments and I will do my best to answer them.
Also, please also post pictures for those who build this kind of light.
I can\'t wait to see what you put forward in the design!
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