When I reversed the truck, I installed some LED lights under the bumper of the truck.
There are some flaws in these designs, but that\'s what I did.
There will be 36 super bright lights in each light cabin (15000 mcd)white LEDs.
The pod is made of a black ABS pipe and will be attached to the bottom of the rear bumper on both sides of the connection. Parts list:-2 qty -1-1/2\" ABS cap (Lowes)$1. 88 ea -2 qty -1-
1/2 \"ABS Street trap adapter (Lowes)$1. 35 ea -2 qty -1-
1/2 ABS cleaning adapter (Lowes)$1. 17 ea -2 qty -1-3/8 x 1-
Rubber plug 3/16x1 (Lowes)$1. 99 ea -1 qty -
3/8 Fender gasket 4/pack (Lowes)$1. 27 -1 qty -
3/8 \"hex nut 5/pack (Lowes)$1. 04 -2 qty -100 o-ring 2 x 1-3/4 (Ace Hardware)$0. 79 ea -72 qty -white LED\'s (eBay)~$5 -24 qty -
120 ohm resistance (eBay)~$2 -1 qty -circuit board (Radio Shack)$3. 99 -
There are already 1/8 thick plexiglass. 1 foot -3/8-
There are already 16 rebar bars (
Later decided to use the hollow lamp nipple)-2 qty -o-
Ring for sealing the plexi lens (Ace Hardware)
Most parts need to be arranged.
The cleaning adapter will stick to the cover, which will serve as the rear housing.
The circuit board will be cut to secure on the shoulder at the bottom of the thread.
The street trap adapter will be plugged into the board and \"sandwich \".
I want to add a shot to seal this thing up.
The lens is made of organic glass 1/8 thick.
I drilled the thread side of the street trap adapter on my \"redneck lathe (pics below)
Allow the lens to be close to the end of the adapter and leave room for the LED.
This picture shows the stock on the left and the modified stock on the right.
Note: it may get better if you have a lathe.
In fact, I could use the lathe and I was just lazy and decided to give it a try at home.
If not, I will buy another one.
Red neck lathe :(see note above)I used a 1-
1/2 \"holesaw wrapped with tape as a make shift collet.
Prevent it from spinning by the drill bit of the workpiece and holessaw.
This is on my drill.
I clipped a sharp wood cut on the workbench and used the drill press quill feed to lower the part to the chisel.
A reverse principle of moving the bracket/tool post to the lathe chuck.
ABS is very soft and very easy to cut.
My drill speed is set too fast and it starts to melt instead of cutting.
After I cut the diameter and depth on both pieces the same, I actually used a thick steel ruler to put the shoulder of the hole into the hand drill along with the custom collet.
Like I said, this thing is very soft and easy to cut.
Here I have marked the board for cutting (pic 9).
I drew the Pre.
Drill the board layout on AutoCAD to determine how to do it in pre-drilled board.
You can see the template I printed out
I cut off the smooth end of the street trap adapter and polished it smooth (pic 12).
Here it is threaded into the cleaning adapter and the board is sandwiched between the two.
Note the shoulders of the plexiglass in the first and last photo.
Plexi is glued down with tape and marked as to be cut.
Explosion view of debris (pic 13).
The white tube on the right is the center tube with the tail light lens repair roll.
I will cut it into the right length and place it between the circuit board and the plexiglass lens.
This will make the lens with o-ring (not pictured)
And separate the led.
I want to stick the lens together/silicone, but I hope to have the option to change the lens in the future if needed.
* Can be adapted to accept additional braking or steering light lighting with red or yellow lenses * to reduce vibration, allow adjustment and provide adequate clearance, make all the places below the bumper I use rubber plugs
They are thick and provide perfect spacing.
The rubber is fairly soft and will form around the lightweight housing once tightened.
I need to make a hole in these tubes, so I used a 3/8 steel pipe.
I sharpen the inner diameter by using a combination of the rat tail file, the counter hole drill bit, and the regular drill bit (pic 14).
Once the inner diameter is pointed, I throw the tube into my cordless drill bit and put the tube on the plug.
I \"drill\" from both sides to the plug.
Then I used the vise, the big socket and the washing machine to \"punch through\" the plug.
It\'s not the cleanest hole, but I know a normal bit will never go through the rubber.
This is better than expected.
Besides, no one can see this hole.
Here they are fully assembled (pic 18).
The housing is drilled and threaded with a 3/8 threaded rod.
I thought about using jamnut to prevent the rod from sticking out of the plastic, but when the rubber stopper is mounted on the truck, it works well as jamnut.
One of them is installed here (pic 20).
The other will distribute evenly on the other side of the hook.
The threaded rod passes through the factory hole on the bumper.
The Fender washer at the top of the rubber plug keeps the top of the plug undeformed, but the bottom of the plug conforms to the curvature of the shell.
Fender washers and nuts at the top (inside)
The pull of the bumper will press your pull on the plug.
The elasticity of the plug will prevent the thread from loosening and suppress vibration. I used spray-
On the bed cover, apply a uniform appearance to the shell.
There are a lot of online resistance calculators that can help you determine the resistance you need for the number of LEDs you will be using.
Here is the led array in each case of my project.
I designed the circuit that runs on 12v so that it can be connected directly to the reverse lighting line.
Two lights draw less than 0 together. 5A.
The circuit is just less than 1. 75\" diameter.
The center pad will be grounded and the pad for 6 & 12 will be on the front.
All components pass-hole (
LEDs and resistors).
The resistor will pass through from the back and the LEDs will pass through from the front.
Now try my toner transfer etching shade. . .
The circuit layout of laser printing on smooth paper.
Laser printing of carbon powder resistant to etching chemicals.
Put this face down on a copper bag board like t-shirt transfer.
I cut off the board before etching.
Etching process: you can see the black stuff running down the board in the eighth photo.
This is copper dissolved by chemicals.
In the ninth picture, you can see a copper ring that has not been dissolved yet.
The rest is to clean/clear the sand on the anti-sand material (toner transfer)
And drill these holes.
A bunch of LED ready for welding.
Test the assembly resistance on the back of the board.
I will test it. . .
I changed my design a little to fit the line through the mounting bar.
I went to my local Ace hardware company and got a 5 \"long light pole (nipple).
It is basically a threaded pipe that is used to support and extend the wire to the lamp socket.
I picked 1/8 IP (
Basically 3/8 \").
I used a 23/32 drill to drill the hole I used to drill for 3/8. 16 thread.
This is a comfortable place, but the lamp bar is threaded and will cut its own thread as it progresses.
I think if I can\'t get it through the thread, I\'ll get the big welding gun out and heat the nipple while I\'m through the thread.
Plastic is easy to use :)
I put them all in and put them together.
Now, do a bit of testing with the 12v Wall HUD.
Figure 5 is behind my house with no lights.
Drum, please. . . A mighty 2.
8w of Powwwrrrrrrrrrrrrrr (pic 6)! ! !
OK, maybe not that exciting, but I\'m very happy with the results. . .
But there are some flaws in these designs: I thought about using surface mount resistors and surface mount LEDs and double panels to build another set of such products for other projects so that everything is not so crowded, but I recently found out that I can get two 10w waterproof LED spotlights in the aluminum case (
Fountain and pool)
Less than $20 on eBay.
I love doing this because I have to figure it out --of-the-
Make these boxes with daily materials and common tools.
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